Patek Philippe | An exclusive timepiece for left-handers
The Geneva-based company presents the new Chronograph with split-seconds and perpetual calendar Ref. 5373P-001, a timepiece designed to adorn the right wrist of left-handers. Based on a model dating from the 1920s, this timepiece has a platinum case and a modern, sporty dial. It will be produced in small series.
In 2005, Patek Philippe leveraged its know-how in the field of short-time measurement by launching a new initiative: the Manufacture developed a complete series of chrono-graph movements with and without additional functions. All of them were designed and produced in-house. The starting signal was given by the manually wound caliber CHR 27-525 PS, the world’s thinnest column-wheel-controlled split-seconds chronograph movement. Caliber CHR 27-525 PS Q launched in 2010 – with the same base movement plus an extremely thin calendar module – is just 7.3mm thick. It is the thinnest split-seconds chronograph movement with perpetual calendar ever produced by the Manufacture. Since 2017, this exceptional caliber has been crafted in very small numbers in line with venerable watchmaking traditions. It ticks in a platinum watch with a blue sunburst dial (Ref. 5372P-001) or a rose gilt dial with a vertical satin finish (Ref. 5372P-010).
Inspired by a one-of-a-kind piece sold in 1927, a custom-made cushion-shaped split-seconds chronograph (movement No. 198 012), the Manufacture has now converted the Ref. 5372 into a new version for left-handers – a genuine debut in the recent history of the Maison in Geneva. The exclusive Ref. 5373P-001 combines a split-seconds chronograph with one of the most elaborate functions – the perpetual calendar which stands emblematically for the grand complications of Patek Philippe.
Inverted displays and operating elements
With a diameter of 38.3mm, the platinum case has the same size as Reference 5372 but its crown – with an integrated chronograph monopusher – is at 9 o’clock and the split-seconds pusher occupies an unusual position at 8 o’clock. It preserves its timeless elegance with the polished, concave bezel that creates the perfect transition to the slightly domed sapphire-crystal back, the recessed and satin-finished case flanks, as well as the delicately curved strap lugs almost seamlessly merging with the bars.
The indications (counters and apertures) of the dial are rotated by 180°: analogue date at 12 o’clock, small seconds at 3 o’clock, moon phases at 6 o’clock and 60-minute counter at 9 o’clock, complemented by the aperture displays for the day of the week and the month as well as the leap year cycle between 10 and 11 o’clock and the day/night indicator between 1 and 2 o’clock. Patek Philippe has also reworked the aesthetic appeal of the dial, endowing it with a charcoal-coloured appearance and a vertical satin finish; it is ingeniously black-gradient rim and the snailed ebony-black subdials. The indication of the time is based on applied Arabic numerals and facetted Dauphine hours and minutes in white gold. The moon-phase display is extremely accurate, deviating from the actual lunar cycle by just one day every 122 years. For crisp legibility, the three chronograph hands from the center – chronograph and split-seconds hands as well as the 60-minute counter hand at 9 o’clock – are varnished red. The three chronograph controls (Start, Stop, and Reset) are selected using the monopusher in the crown at 9 o’clock. Stopping lap times with the split-seconds hand is handled via the rectangular pusher at 8 o’clock.
A sapphire-crystal display back – interchangeable with the solid-platinum back delivered with the watch – reveals the fantastic architecture of the CHR 27-525 PS Q movement with its two column wheels that bear two polished caps in the typical Patek Philippe style. The bridges, decorated with Geneva striping, are carefully chamfered and the edges are polished. The gaze is also drawn to the elegance of the special-shaped components and the vintage-look bridges. Their acute internal angles can only be completed by hand, which calls for considerable dexterity and many years of experience.
The sporty appearance and modern attitude of the dial also applies to the black calfskin strap featuring an embossed fabric texture and contrasting red seams. It is secured with a platinum fold-over clasp.
Like all of Patek Philippe’s platinum watches, the new Ref. 5373P-001 features a brilliant-cut diamond in thecaseband, exceptionally set at 12 o’clock on this timepiece for left-handers.
From now on, this watch is the only remaining model with the CHR 27-525 PS Q movement that was formerly available in References 5372P-001 and 5372P-010, as both the latter models have been retired from the collection.
An illustrious predecessor
Crafted in 1925-1926 on request for a left-handed customer and sold in 1927, this split-seconds chronograph with a cushion case in 18K yellow gold (34 x 34 mm) and movement No. 198‘012 (13-ligne diameter) stood out with its unusual arrangement of operating elements and displays. The case and the movement were rotated by 180° with the chronograph pusher at 9 o’clock instead of 3 o’clock and the split-seconds pusher at 8 o’clock instead 2 o’clock. The silver-toned dial with black Breguet numerals was reconfigured to reposition the 30-minute chronograph counter from 3 to 9 o’clock and the the small seconds display from 9 to 3 o’clock. It is also distinguished by the uncommon shape of the chronograph and split-seconds hands with counterweights.